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Rigs for Fishing Ponds.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 8:04 pm   Post subject: Rigs for Fishing Ponds. Reply with quote  

Hey people, there are the rigs that are commonly used in ponds.

These are rigs that you use to target the different levels of water and alternations between each method should be employed to "feel" for the feeding zone.


The dimensions are for a rough gauge.

Surface:
Float rig

Mid:
Apollo

Bottom:
Spinning rig
Rotten Bottom Rig



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:07 pm   Post subject: Reply with quote  

Before I begin this tutorial, understand that all ponds have different structures and places that fishes like to congregate. They are like fishes cooped up in a tank and they like to feed at certain times and hide at some places. Very predictable if you grasp their eating habits in each area.

Different rigs call for different times.


The Baits:
http://www.fishingkaki.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=147

Prob, the Farmmart Trip was a pretty piece of picture from what you are experiencing when you go to the ponds simply because the ponds that we are visiting will force you to work your ass off sometimes and yes, you are able to bring the fishes back.


The pic is the floating rig 1 and rig 2.
Used to target mid water feeders. Like Golden Promfets.

In both pics,

Materials:
1) A 3.5 ft leader line, Eg dupont 20lbs - 40lbs.I don't really recommand 40lbs because its slightly spooky and I am not a macho man by loading my cetus with 20lbs braid. I work to my needs.

2) A float. Weighted or not weighted. ( Meaning some floats have little leads attached to it. Unweighted meant that it is made of styro only. ) Depending on how far you want to cast in a pond. Remember, the tactics you employ in a pond doesnt follow the theory of " you cast further, you get bigger fish".

Using a non weighted float will allow your baits to drift with the pumps in the pond. If you rear aquarium fishes, try to observe how they move accordingly with currents.
1 myth to dispell is that not all fishes moves against currents!


3) A size 1 hook. Personal Preference. I choose the technic ones or cheap ones, because I have never see my hooks bent in ponds because i believe in playing with drags and dont force the fish in. But hooks mst be sharp. Test by skating the hooks on your thumb nail. If there is a prominent white line, all is good and you are ready to rumble.
In some cases, it is good to have some size 3 hooks. Just incase, you will be baiting the entire kembong head.

Step 1:
Tie a dropper knot first. Leaving the float end to be shorter, about 20 cm and the hook side to be 3 ft.
http://www.leadertec.com/tipsandtechniques/fishing_knots/knots_dropper_loop.html

Step 2:
Attach a float (weighted or not weighted) to the shorter end by any knot, any thing that can be done in a jiffy.

Step 3:
Attach a hook to the longer side and Bingo! You will get something in the first pic.

Optional step: Attach a split shot ( small sinker ) by clamping it to 20cm above the hook. Fantastic in cases with strong currents.

In the 3rd pic, you will realise that the float ( only unweighted ones) is on the main line and sliding. To lock it at position, slot a piece of twig in.
One good thing about this will mean that the depth that you want to present the bait is totally adjustable. Extremely versatile.

BUT, your casting abilities will be greatly impeded. Gently lob your baits out.

For this kind of floating rig, you get a piece of 3.5 ft leader line also, tie a hook at the end, attached a split shot and tie a loop at the other end.







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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:11 pm   Post subject: Reply with quote  

For the mid water, apollo rigs will do sufficently. The rig should be 50cm long, and 2 hooks attached to it.

For the bottom method, simple rig-- pic 1.

Tie a loop and attached a hook and you are ready to rock. Attached a split shot. That's a must.

Same poundage and same sized hooks.

Technique: Casting it far out. Let it sink until it hits bottom and reel in gradually.


For the modified rotten bottom rig at the last pic, just attached a small sinker to the swivel and repeat the steps to tie the simple rig - pic1.

Thats for parking. For the original bottom rotten rig system, attached a piece of rubber band to the weight and connect to the swivel. In case, you hit a snag, the elasticity effect might propel the rig out or just snap, (losing the sinker only) saving you the hassle of tieing a new rig




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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 1:58 pm   Post subject: Reply with quote  

erm............................................
i tot u newbie??
Rolling Eyes
lol~

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 7:59 pm   Post subject: Reply with quote  

nice write up there.
i'm from SIM too, but i'm a noob at fishing. lol

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:07 pm   Post subject: Reply with quote  

Haha, dun worry, all of us are noobs too la, compare with some of the very knowledgeble uncles around our waters and ponds! We have a Kelong trip planned for the end of the month, if you are not having exams, do please try and join us!

Jeremy

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 1:41 am   Post subject: Reply with quote  

Thanks for the invite bro Wink
I think my assignment groupmates will gut me like a fish if i go.
btw, is kian york still in the club?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:16 am   Post subject: Reply with quote  

Kian York is still helping out with our official activities:P He's otherwise busy finishing his last year and rehabilitating his back.... or his shoulder... lol can't remeber... you have to ask him yourself:P

Jeremy

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